Barcelona

My time here in Spain is affording me so very many opportunities to explore, seek, and adventure. My free time is spent exploring small side streets, a new café, or a new park. Suddenly, a Friday is upon me. More often than not, I find myself packing my weekend bag and stepping onto a plane or a bus or a train. It has been two weeks since I visited Barcelona. It feels alternatively like a lifetime or an hour ago.

The site of the 1992 Olympics, Barcelona sits on the Mediterranean in glory. The sprawl of the city as it slopes gently down into the sea is breathtaking. Sevilla, while a beautiful city, is not as Euro- cosmopolitan as Barcelona feels. Sevilla says “Spain” while Barcelona says “Europe”. I absolutely loved visiting. You can check out the pictures at http://picasaweb.google.com/sgauche, Espana, Part 7.

Here’s the commentary:

It was a weekend of Gaudi- Antoni Gaudi that is. Barcelona is his canvas. Traces of his artistic eye and unmistakable design are seen throughout the city. The Temple de la Sagrada Familia looms large above the city. Construction began in 1882, and now, in 2007, it is still at least 30 years from completion. Antoni Gaudi was the project director until his tragic death in 1926, when he was run over by a carriage. Upon completion, there will be twelve bell towers dedicated to the 12 apostles. Eight have been built. There will be 4 towers to the Evangelists or Gospel writers, a tower to the Virgin Mary. There are two unique sides to the Temple: the Façade of the Nativity and the façade of the Passion. The artwork is very interesting and thought provoking, having commenced several debates over the delineation of art and religion. Additionally, nothing is constructed without significant meaning. Gaudi found much of his inspiration in the natural world, and the artwork of this eccentric man mimics it. Above all, I am astounded that this Temple is over 100 years in the making. Incredible architects, construction workers, and artists pour their life and work into this Temple, often knowing full well that they will not see the end of this project. Talk about believing in your work. I cannot wait to return to see the completed temple; it is one of my favorite places yet.

I also toured La Pedrera, Gaudi’s museum and apartment and office complex. This edifice truly demonstrates Gaudi understanding of architectures as an art form. Every element of the building has not only function, but unique form. Even the door knobs and chairs are fashioned for creativity and ease of use. His interest in shapes, colors and geometry highlight his creativity. The Terrace is the most unique part of this apartment block. The roof flows like water as the roof holds space to walk and ramble above the city. The ventilation towers and chimneys are decorated with ceramic to make them more appealing to the eye. You’ll notice that some appear like Darth Vader. It is rumored that George Lucas did visit La Pedrera while creating that very distinguishable character. Gaudi’s art was captivating and breathtaking, and a fun alternative to paintings hung on a wall. The final place of Gaudi’s I visited in the city was the most breathtaking, and a place I would make my home. The Parque Guell was constructed to be an exclusive suburb, much like our gated communities. The park was to house 60 homes, but only two were built. The attention to detail and the unique appearance of the neighborhood make one feel as if they have stepped into another world. Thankfully, the project was never completed, which means the park is now the property of the city and opens to the public.

I toured the Olympic built high into a hill that overlooks the city and the port. Near the Olympic installations is Plaza de Espana, the site of beautiful fountains. There was a great light and water show in the Plaza, much like the fountains at the Bellagio in Vegas. Only the blue beauty of the Mediterranean outdid the dancing water.

The food and beverage adventures were unparalleled: everything from great tapas to falafels to cava, Barcelona’s own champagne.

On Sunday, after seeing the Picasso museum, which features many of his early works and the beginnings of cubism, I ventured to the Cathedral to see the sardana, the folk dance of Cataluna. The men in the band were old and gray; their instruments even older and in need of a shining. They played proudly as groups of people, mainly older, gathered to dance. It is a fairly intricate dance I’m told, although it does not appear that way. The faces of the dancers are fixed with expressions of deep concentration.

Las Ramblas is a tree-lined pedestrian boulevard that is the place to be in Barcelona. Full of travelers, living statues, salespeople, and shops galore, Las Ramblas meanders its way to the port. The Mercat de la Boqueria is an open-air meat, fruit, vegetable, and fish market. It reminds me very much of Pike Place Market in Seattle, although there are no flying fish! Ending at the Monument a Colom or Monument to Columbus, the city sprawls out behind you and the great sea in front of you.

Barcelona has long been an important city, dating back to its role as an important port of the Greeks. It continues to persevere in beauty. And while it is a gem of Spain, it is very different from southern Spain. There are two official languages in Catalonia, and therefore, Barcelona: Catalan and Castilian Spanish. The Catalan government has a policy of promoting the Catalan language. School is taught in both languages, but government work is done solely in Catalan. While Barcelona is most assuredly bilingual, the Catalan people feel that they must keep this policy of dual language to protect their language and their heritage. History runs wide and deep in these places. And it is not only in buildings and museums, but in homes and hearts of people.