Old History, New History

The College of William and Mary is a perfect place for one to study American history. So much of this “Great American Experiment” finds its roots between the James and York rivers. I have explored the very beginnings of our country by walking on its streets, seeing its battlefields, and touring its buildings. This year there is extra excitement in the Williamsburg area as it will be the 400th anniversary of Jamestown- 1607-2007. 400 years have passed since the first settlers came, struggled, and created a new life in a new world. Very little exists from those first days, but excavation has produced some interesting findings, including the post holes dug for the wooden fortification. I took a great class last Spring on Early Chesapeake history that looked at all of these beginnings for the United States.

And now I’m in Europe, and particularily, Spain, which is home to thousands of years of history. Yes, all things Williamsburg are old and historical, but cannont even begin to compare to this place. Here, history lives. It is not something people study or have as a side interest. Rather, history is life. History is so tightly wound up into identity. It isn’t as if everyone walks around reciting dates and battles, but there is a greater awareness of “from when they came”. Not only are physical traces of history everywhere you look, from narrow, cobblestone streets to imposing cathedrals, but names and regions tell greater stories. There is an understanding that we are apart of something larger. There is a greater story that is being told, that stretches from before us to beyond us, yet includes us.

I talked with a man at dinner an evening a few months ago, who also like Arnold Palmer’s, about this subject. He brought the concept home for me when he reminded me that the Bible is like that as well. We are invited into a story that envelops are reality into a history and a future. We understand who we are as individuals and as people when we read God’s Word and see who God has been and continues to be. I am enthralled with seeing and understanding Colonial America history, but enjoy even more the older history of Spain that encompasses Moslems, Christians, and Jews. How much more would a history that extends to the beginning of time speak to me of the wonder of life and its experiences?

With that all said, on Wednesday, we traveled to Toledo, known as the “City of Three Cultures”. Toledo was the first capital of Spain under the Visigoths in the mid-6th century. If I remember correctly, the Visigoths were mercenaries from Alemania (Germany). Especially unique about this city is the fact that Jews, Moors, and Christians lived in this city for hundreds of years with religious tolerance. The city was not without political conflict or change, but the religious tolerance persisted and allowed these three religions to co-exist. Toledo looks much like a Roman city, rising up on a hill with majesty. Yet, in the 1560s, Toledo’s role as capital would end as the capital moved to Madrid.

Fernando, our tour guide, showed us the masterwork of El Greco (born Domingo Theotocopuli). El Greco came to Spain to work for Felipe II as a court painter decorating the Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo del Escorial. (See last entry and photos) When the king rejected his work, he moved to Toledo and painted “the Burial of Count Orgaz”.

“The painting depicts the miracle of the burial of the Count who died in 1586. Count Orgaz was responsible for the rebuilding of the church of San Tomas. He also donated a monastery to the Augustinian friars, which was dedicated to St. Stephen. El Greco’s painting depicts the moment when the priests were ready to bury the Count; St. Stephen and Augustine came down from heaven and buried him with their own hands. The painting is divided into two sections, the top, celestial, divine, idealist, and the bottom, human and realist. Take time to note in the lower left hand corner, the right hand panel of St. Stephen’s cloak with depicts the stoning of St. Stephen. Note, too, the three heavenly musicians in the cloud to the Virgin’s right. There is an extraordinarily beautiful portrait of St. Peter with the keys to heaven.”

Additionally, if you look closely at the faces of the “church people”, you will notice they are very similar to the face of the dead count. Interesting move, El Greco.

Toledo also has a convent that is credited with the creation of marzipan. The lore states that all the nuns had left was almonds and sugar. They used the two ingredients to create a sweet dough. And sweet it is!

We visited the Mosque of the Cristo de la Luz and the incredible Cathedral. You’ll notice in the photos the Monastery and Church of San Juan de los Reyes as well. Check them out at http://picasaweb.google.com/sgauche. Choose Espana, Part 2

We returned to Madrid in the afternoon to visit the Prado Museum. Its fine collection of over 3,000 paintings includes works of El Greco (“The Adoration of the Shepherds” and “St. Andrew and St. Francis”), Velazquez (“Las Meninas”), and Goya (“El tres de mayo” and “The Colossus”). I also saw Fra Angelico’s Annunciation, and suddenly last semester’s Italian Renaissance Art class was meaningful!

A full day, and another cold day. We went to dinner at a wonderful Italian restaurant, which I didn’t know was allowed when you were visiting Spain. Thursday is a traveling day to Sevilla- our destination.

Toledo was a reminder that history is the story of 1180, 1492, 1607, and 2007. The reality that all passing time becomes apart of the larger story is an important reminder to live much like Charles Dickens’ Scrooge promised to live: acknowledging the past, present, and future. After all, it all ends up history.

God bless us everyone!